Key cutting looks simple from the customer side. You hand over a key, a machine whirs, and a few minutes later a shiny duplicate slides back across the counter. Behind that easy moment sits a lot of craft, a pile of standards and key profiles, and the kind of judgement a local locksmith builds through years of odd requests and tricky locks. I have spent a good chunk of my working life at the bench, breathing metal dust, decoding worn keys, and keeping households, small businesses, and landlords in Hebburn moving. This guide folds that experience into a single place so you know what can be duplicated, what cannot, and when it pays to call a professional rather than gamble on a cheap copy.
Why people need duplicates, and why timing matters
Most keys are duplicates long before trouble strikes. A new tenant wants a spare for a partner. A shop manager needs three copies for weekend staff. A car owner sees worn teeth and wants insurance against a breakage. The best time to duplicate a key is when it still works perfectly. A locksmith can read the original, set the machine to the proper code or depth chart, cut a clean copy, and verify function. Leave it until your only key has worn rounded shoulders or you have to jiggle it to turn, and you are asking for a duplicate of a problem. You can still get a reliable copy from a worn key, but it takes more work: code cutting, decryption of bitting from the lock itself, or manufacturer lookups. All of that adds cost and time, and sometimes the original is too far gone to provide a trustworthy pattern.
When someone phones a local locksmith Hebburn and opens with, “I’ve only got this one key, it’s a bit rough but it still works,” I ask them to pop in the same day. Every month that passes rounds those edges further. The extra metal that should guide the pins or wafers vanishes to polishing inside the lock. A clean duplicate now is cheaper than an emergency call later.
The anatomy of a key and why it matters for duplication
Every key has three elements that matter:
- The blank: This is the base shape that fits the lock’s keyway. Think of it as the silhouette that slides in. Blanks are catalogued by profile codes. A Yale rim cylinder might take a Y1 or Y2 blank, a standard British mortice might use an ERA or Union section, while a UPVC euro cylinder comes in dozens of profiles specific to manufacturer and model. Picking the right blank is step one. The wrong blank may slide partway then bind, or it may insert but refuse to rotate. The bitting: These are the cuts or heights along the blade that align the lock’s pins or levers to a shear line. Bitting is measured in numbered depths, not eyeballed ridges. On pin tumbler keys, depths are precise to tenths of a millimetre. Mortice keys have notches that lift levers to exact heights. Good duplication reproduces those depths, not approximate valleys. The shoulder and tip: The shoulder is the stop that sets insertion depth. On some keys the tip sets position instead. If the shoulder is off by even half a millimetre, every bitting position shifts, and you get a key that almost turns. A locksmith checks shoulder alignment with gauges, not guesswork.
Understanding this lets you judge the work you receive. A key that looks shiny but jams halfway likely rides the wrong blank. A key that enters smoothly but needs a hard twist probably has a depth error or shoulder offset.
What can be duplicated, and what cannot
Most domestic and light commercial keys can be duplicated quickly. That includes:
- Standard cylinder keys: Yale-type rim cylinders, euro cylinders on UPVC doors, and oval cylinders. These run on pin tumbler systems. Duplication is straightforward with a calibrated machine and the right blank. On higher-security cylinders with anti-snap and anti-pick features, the keys may be thicker and use restricted profiles, but duplicates are still possible with permission and the correct blanks. Mortice keys: Five- and seven-lever mortice keys are the long, notched steel types for older British door locks. Duplication takes a different machine and careful filing of lever steps. Worn originals show rounded notches that create false readings. A locksmith in Hebburn will often test the copy in the customer’s lock or use lever gauges to confirm heights. Padlock keys: From small suitcase padlocks to solid brass gate locks. Many padlocks share common keyways, though some budget models vary widely in tolerance, which can make them fussy. It is normal to do a second light pass or hand finish to get a clean turn. Tubular keys: Vending machines, some bike locks, and meter cabinets. These require a tubular key machine that sets pin depths around a circle. Not every shop keeps one, so ring ahead. Dimple and laser-cut keys: These have side holes or tracks rather than traditional edge cuts. They demand specific clamps and cutters, and often run on restricted profiles. If your key has a code card, bring it. Without a card, a local locksmith Hebburn may still duplicate by reading the existing key, provided the profile is not legally protected. Vehicle keys: This splits into transponder and non-transponder types. Any car built since the late 1990s uses a transponder chip that talks to the immobiliser. You need a chip clone or programming to the vehicle. Physical cutting is only half the job. Many independent locksmiths can cut and program common makes at the roadside or in the shop. Dealer-only keys exist, but fewer than most people think.
Keys that cannot be duplicated without extra steps usually fall into two categories: restricted and protected systems, and keys that are too damaged or worn to read. Restricted systems use patented profiles and registered dealer networks. You present proof of ownership, the dealer orders the blank or pre-cut key from the manufacturer, and you wait a few days. Protected systems combine profile restrictions with complex mechanisms that make visual reading unreliable. In those cases, code cutting from the original code or a lock code is the safe route.
A day at the bench: how accurate duplication happens
When you hand over a key, the first thing I do is read it like a small map. I check the head for a brand or number, inspect the blade for wear patterns, and measure the shoulder. I match a blank by profile, not by guess, and I use calipers when the keyway allows a near-fit from two options. Once I clamp the original and the blank into a calibrated duplicator, I verify alignment with the machine’s tracers and stops.
A good machine matters. A cheap bench-top can drift a tenth of a millimetre per cut, which you will feel as that “almost turns” sensation. A well-maintained duplicator with sharp cutters and correct carriage tension gives cuts that mirror the original. If a customer brings a badly worn key, I will not simply copy the wear. I measure relative depth, use a depth-and-spacing chart for that keyway, and recut to the likely factory bitting where possible. That usually removes the jiggling requirement.
Hand finishing is underappreciated. After cutting, I deburr with a wire brush and stone the blade lightly to remove razor edges that would scratch pins. On mortice copies, I file each step until the falls are crisp and true. On dimple keys, I polish the lateral track to prevent judder. The final step is proof: I test in a shop lock of the same class or, if the customer has brought the cylinder or padlock, I test in the actual hardware.
Common problems and what they mean
A duplicate that sticks on insertion suggests a profile mismatch or burrs. Burrs are quick to fix, profile mismatches are not. Smooth insertion with refusal to turn points to depth errors or shoulder position. If the key turns one way but not the other, suspect wear differences in the lock, especially on euro cylinders with a heavily used side. I often recut the high points down a few hundredths to match the lock’s settled pin heights.
Mortice lock trouble shows as partial movement on the turn, then a hard stop. That is a lever height issue, not lubrication. Filing a single notch by a hair can free the gate alignment, but that is work for a locksmith rather than trial-and-error with a pocket file. On restricted dimple keys, a copy that works once then binds often indicates a lost chamfer on a side dimple. A brief stone can restore the lead-in and cure the bind.
Vehicle keys are their own world. A blade that inserts and turns but the car refuses to start almost always means the transponder is not matched. Some cars will start and die within two seconds. Others show a flashing immobiliser light. Cloning the chip or programming a new one solves it, but do not force the turn repeatedly; the steering lock and ignition barrels are not designed for repeated dead turns.
When code cutting beats copying
If the original is worn, bent, or a poor copy of a copy, code cutting is the gold standard. Code cutting uses the manufacturer’s depth and spacing for a keyway and a numeric bitting code. Sometimes the code is stamped on the lock face or the original key. On office furniture or lockers, a small number like 644, 9221, or KA2 can be enough. Domestic cylinders rarely show a usable code, but locksmiths maintain reference charts for common profiles. We can decode a key by measuring each cut depth, then cut a fresh key to those depths rather than the worn shape.
For master keyed systems, code cutting is often mandatory to preserve hierarchy. Copying a master key from a worn sub-key will corrupt the system, creating accidental cross-keys. If your building uses a key registration scheme, bring the authorisation. A locksmith Hebburn can handle restricted code orders but will not locksmith Hebburn bypass controls, and that protects everyone in the building.
Materials, blanks, and why price varies
Not all blanks are equal. Cheap zinc alloy blanks cut like butter, then twist under torque and wear quickly. Brass blanks are standard for domestic keys, combining cut quality with strength. Nickel silver blanks last longer and resist wear in high-use environments like communal doors or shop shutters. For dimple and high-security profiles, branded blanks sit at a higher price, not for the logo, but because the alloy and tolerances are tighter. That translates to less burr, better chamfers, and a copy that behaves like the original.
Price also reflects the machine and the time. A quick Yale-type duplicate might take three minutes end to end. A dimple key that requires a specific clamp, calibration, and verification takes longer. A transponder car key includes the chip, the cutting, and the programming session, often with a diagnostic tool plugged into the vehicle. It is normal for a non-remote spare car key to cost a fraction of a dealer remote, while still providing reliable everyday use.
Security considerations when adding keys
More keys equals more access. That simple statement should shape how you duplicate. For rental properties, keep a key log. For commercial premises, assign keys to roles, not names, and retrieve them on exit. Consider restricted profiles for external doors or areas that hold stock, cash, or data. Restricted does not mean impenetrable, it means keys cannot be casually copied at a kiosk. That friction drastically reduces casual leakage of access.
If a tenant has left with a key, do not assume that key was the only one. If the tenancy lacked a key log, change the cylinder. On a UPVC door, swapping a euro cylinder takes minutes and gives you fresh keys cut to factory spec. It costs less than a single callout for a break-in. If your home insurance specifies a British Standard mortice lock on the final exit door, ensure the replacement meets the same standard after any changes. A local locksmith Hebburn will carry compliant cylinders and mortice locks and can advise on the right kite marks.
The reality of “do not duplicate” stamps
Keys stamped “do not duplicate” are common, especially on office furniture and older cylinders. The stamp alone is not enforceable. What matters is the profile and whether it is legally restricted. A true restricted key belongs to a patented system and requires authorisation to copy. A generic key with a warning stamp has no legal protection. Ethically, reputable locksmiths will ask for proof of authority when the key looks like it controls sensitive access, even if the stamp is decorative. If you manage a site and want true control, move to a restricted system and set up a simple authorisation form.
Field examples from Hebburn jobs
A caretaker from a Hebburn primary school brought in a set of dimple keys for external doors that were jamming at lunchtime. The originals looked clean, but the staff had started lubricating with WD-40, which attracts grit. The keys picked up fine particles and developed micro-burrs on the dimples. We cleaned the cylinders with proper lock spray and air, polished the dimples with a fine stone, and duplicated two spares on nickel silver blanks. The jamming stopped immediately. The caretaker switched to a graphite-based lube, and the problem did not return.
A landlord on Station Road handed me a badly worn mortice key that only turned if you lifted the door. We decoded the lever heights by measuring the remaining notches and comparing them to common lever stacks for that lock brand. The correct bitting indicated that two depths had collapsed from wear. I hand-cut a fresh key to the proper heights, then adjusted the striking plate to account for door drop. The duplicate worked smoothly, and the landlord ordered three more for new tenants.
A driver with a 2012 Ford Fiesta had lost their only remote key. The car sat outside their flat, immobilised. We verified ownership, then cut a non-remote blade and programmed a new transponder chip on site. The job took about forty minutes. A week later, the customer returned for a remote key, which we paired to the car and cut from the same code. Keeping the non-remote as a backup meant a future loss did not become an emergency.
When a fresh lock beats a fresh key
Repeated duplication from a worn base creates a generational drift. Each copy carries the last copy’s errors, and after three or four generations, the lock begins to complain. If your key collection includes several visibly different cuts for the same door, pause. Bring the keys and, if possible, the cylinder. We can cut back to factory depths or, if the lock itself is tired, replace the cylinder so you start with a clean core and three new keys. On older mortice locks, fatigue in the springs or lever wear can make perfect keys feel wrong. A new British Standard mortice lock improves both security and everyday feel.
There is also the burglary question. After a forced entry, even if the thief gains no keys, the stress on the cylinder or mortice case can alter tolerances. If a UPVC door has been “snapped,” replace the cylinder with an anti-snap model and rekey. If a mortice lock shows a prised faceplate or bent bolt, change it. Fresh keys in a fatigued lock are money poorly spent.
How to keep your keys and locks working longer
Everyday habits extend life. Do not use the key as a handle to pull the UPVC door fully closed; close the door, lift the handle, then turn the key. Avoid overburdened keyrings that drag sideways on the cylinder. Keep grit out of pockets where keys live with sand or loose screws. If a key sticks, do not flood the lock with heavy oil. Use a dry PTFE spray for cylinders and a light graphite powder for older mortice locks. If you feel a new stiffness, let a locksmith look before you distort the key with force. A ten-minute adjustment often saves a snapped key and an afternoon without access.
What to bring to the shop
Bring the key you use most, not the new-looking one that has lived in a drawer for years. Bring any tag or code card that came with the lock or cylinder. If the lock is removable, bring the cylinder or padlock itself if you have doubts about wear. For car keys, bring the vehicle, the V5C logbook or proof of ownership, and ID. For restricted systems, bring authorisation on letterhead or from the registered signatory. A local locksmith Hebburn will not cut restricted keys without it, and that policy protects your premises.
Here is a short checklist you can skim before you set off:
- Primary working key, not a seldom-used spare Any key code cards or lock documentation The lock or cylinder if you suspect heavy wear Proof of authority for restricted or registered systems For vehicle keys, the car itself plus ID and ownership proof
How many spares is sensible
For a household, three is a sweet spot: one each for the regular users and one sealed spare with a trusted person. For small businesses, match spares to roles: manager, two staff, and one sealed spare in a safe. For communal doors, limit spares and log distribution. Replace lost keys promptly and assume duplication may have happened. Treat keys like small assets with a lifecycle, and you avoid panicked calls on wet nights.
Working with a locksmith rather than a kiosk
High-street kiosks have their place for simple cuts. When the stakes are low and the lock is forgiving, you might get lucky with a quick copy. But kiosks rarely measure bitting depths or correct worn patterns, and they may not stock the right profile for UK-specific mortice and cylinder systems. A professional bench carries depth keys, micrometers, code books, and the broader stock of blanks. More importantly, a locksmith reads problems and guarantees a working result rather than just a cut piece of metal. If you need advice or you are dealing with anything beyond a straightforward Yale-type key, ask a locksmith Hebburn for guidance before you spend on a guess.
The quiet value of local knowledge
Hebburn has its quirks. Certain estates built in the 1990s lean heavily on a handful of euro cylinder profiles that look similar but are not interchangeable. Some older terraces still carry sturdy five-lever mortice locks that punish sloppy duplication. Communal doors in blocks often use registered systems, and the management companies require sign-off before a duplicate is released. A local locksmith knows which padlocks the marina chandler stocks, which shop shutters tend to bend keys, and which car models are fussy about chip cloning. That familiarity shortens the path from problem to solution.
When to switch to restricted or smart access
If you manage a multi-tenant building, a small clinic, or a workshop with valuable stock, consider a restricted key system. You gain control over duplication, a clear authorisation trail, and the flexibility to build a master and sub-master hierarchy. When keys go missing, you can rekey the cylinders and reissue under control. For even tighter control, electronic cylinders and smart access systems replace metal keys with fobs or codes. They let you revoke access instantly and view audit trails. They are not right for every door or budget, and they carry their own failure modes, like battery management. A professional will weigh the trade-offs with you, door by door.
Final thoughts from the bench
Cutting keys is not magic, but it is not mindless duplication either. It is measuring, understanding, and respecting small tolerances. The difference between a copy that works for years and one that works today and fails next month lives in those details. If you have one key left, bring it now, not after it snaps. If your lock feels off, let someone who listens to locks for a living hear it. If you run a business, treat keys like tools and keep them logged.
And if you are near, walk into a local locksmith Hebburn with your questions. Half the job happens before the machine turns, in the quiet conversation where we figure out what you need and how to make it last.